No Alcohol No Sweat

The precise origins of non-alcoholic wine are unknown. Now, that doesn’t sound like the most forthright and bold opening to a blog post now, does it? But it’s true. Lost in the mists of time is a saying for a reason. However, it is thought that the ancient Egyptians had a form of non-alcoholic wine, made from grapes, honey and herbs. The Egyptians believed that this drink had medicinal properties and would often drink it during religious ceremonies. More is known about non-alcoholic wine in ancient Rome.

Mustum

Mustum was a type of grape juice that was harvested before it was fully ripe, giving it a high sugar content and a distinct flavour. To make mustum, grapes were harvested early in the season, pressed, strained to remove any remaining fruit particles and then bottled. The juice was not allowed to ferment, which prevented alcohol from being produced, and resulted in a non-alcoholic wine with a sweet and fruity taste.

It was considered a delicacy in ancient Rome and was often served to honoured guests at banquets. The wines were served in elaborate vessels, such as silver goblets, to highlight their importance, Mustum was also believed to have health benefits such as being anti-inflammatory and useful in treating fevers, as well as aiding digestion.

It’s also possible that mustum held a significant role in religious and ritual practices in ancient Rome. It may have been used in offerings to gods and considered a symbol of abundance and fertility. Priests and individuals are thought to have made libations of mustum in various ceremonies and celebrations. In particular, because it was made from grapes harvested early in the season, people may have used it to make offerings to gods like Jupiter and Venus to ensure a successful harvest and a good vintage for the actual wine-making season ahead.

Defrutum

Defrutum was a more concentrated form of non-alcoholic wine that was made by boiling mustum down to a thick syrup. This process resulted in a sweeter, thicker wine with a more intense, sweeter flavour. It also meant that the liquid could be stored for longer than it could in its fresh, mustum state.

While it was also drunk, defrutum was often used as a sweetener in cooking, and was added to sauces and stews to add flavour and depth. Its singular qualities also made it useful as a preservative for food. It was added to fruits and vegetables to prevent them from spoiling, and it was used to preserve meat and fish. It was also believed to have various health benefits, and was used in remedies for coughs and other ailments.

Non-alcoholic wine in ancient Rome was popular

Both mustum and defrutum were highly valued in ancient Rome and were often traded as commodities. They were exported to other parts of the empire and were used as a form of currency. Mustum and defrutum were also popular among Roman soldiers. They were believed to provide energy and were often consumed before battles or long marches.

That’s not to say that the ancient Romans were parsimonious in their consumption of alcohol. Traditional, alcoholic wine was very much more popular among all classes of Romans. Indeed, one of their Gods, Bacchus, was devoted to wine and drunken revelry (the equivalent of the ancient Greek’s Dionysus).

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While non-alcoholic wine has moved on a lot from the days of ancient Rome, you can still taste its roots dipped in mustum and defrutum, namely the slightly sweeter taste of non-alcoholic wine compared to traditional wine.

I haven’t reviewed mustum and defrutum (as far as I’m aware, no one has yet pioneered their revival in the bars of Italy, although there is a thought that defrutum is a precursor to today’s balsamic vinegar), but there are lots of other tasting notes to check out.