The Athletic Brewing Company, headquartered in Connecticut, USA, is another company that just produces NA brews. They are definitely a growing breed, these dedicated non-alcoholic brewers. And that has to be a good thing for raising the quality of products on the market – all that nous going into just NA beer. Athletic make a selection of non-alcoholic beers, including a Belgian-style white, and a couple of IPAs. (They also donate money to protect and restore local nature trails, which is a nice initiative.) Here, I’m trying the Athletic Run Wild IPA.
It’s probably their flagship IPA, and enjoys a good reputation, so let’s see what the fuss is about. (Oh, and by the way, it’s vegan as well, so everyone can give it a go.)
Appearance
Run Wild IPA pours a a nice golden hue. There’s a slight haze to it, which gives it that distinctive “craft beer” appearance. There’s a good effervescence on the pour and the head is decent, if a little prompt in disappearing.
Aroma
On the nose, Athletic Run Wild IPA is quite bold for a non-alcoholic beer. The dry hopping that has been used as part of the brewing process helps to bring citrus notes to the fore, especially grapefruit and orange. You might also get a whiff of mango in the background, as well as some pine which serves as a balance to the fruitiness. The use of Citra and Mosaic hops enhances this complexity, creating a bouquet pretty reminiscent of traditional IPAs. As the beer aerates, you start to get more of the malt sweetness emerging, further balancing those powerful hop notes.
Taste
As you might expect of an XPA, the Run Wild delivers a hop-forward flavour profile – at least initially. Those citrus notes are first on the palate; I get mainly grapefruit, with orange playing the secondary role, which I like as it errs away from the sweeter end of the citrus notes. With the pine that comes in, there is a distinct bitterness that develops, but it’s noticeable rather than overwhelming. All in all, a well-calibrated complexity.
Mouthfeel
With a light to medium body, Run Wild IPA attempts to strike a balance between crispness and substance, and for the most part they pull it off. It doesn’t suffer from that thinness that some non-alcoholic beers struggle with, but it isn’t too cloying either. Which all makes it very drinkable.
Finish
The finish of Run Wild IPA is semi-dry, so it feels crisp while leaving a distinct hoppiness with an edge of malt sweetness. It is perhaps a little abrupt in departure when compared to craft alcoholic beers, but not so much as to detract from the drinking experience.
Pairing Suggestions
Athletic Run Wild IPA is a good non-alcoholic beer for sharing a couple of cans on a warm day. I perhaps wouldn’t call it a session brew as I think you wouldn’t want to overdo those dominant citrus flavours, but knocking back a couple of these with your friends would be a very pleasant way to spend an hour or two. Food-wise, you could serve something light alongside, like grilled fish or garden salad with a lemon vinaigrette, and bob’s your uncle.
Overall Impressions of Athletic Run Wild IPA
Athletic Brewing Company’s Run Wild IPA is, simply, a very good non-alcoholic beer. It delivers a lot of the complexity, aroma and flavour profile of a traditional IPA. It has that hop-forward taste, well balanced by the malt base. I could enjoy this NA beer at a social gathering or just a quiet evening in. It’s versatile and just the right sort of satisfying.