Proper Job IPA is made by the St Austell brewery down in the UK’s western-most county, Cornwall. It’s a beautiful part of the country where I used to spend many a summer as a child. As an adult I even did my scuba certification down there – in February for some godforsaken reason. Cold? I thought I’d never be warm again.
Cornwall also has a growing beer scene, although the St Austell brewery has a long history. While you won’t need to to get your hands on it, let’s consider – would this non-alcoholic beer be worth taking a trip for?
Appearance
The word is amber. Proper Job IPA has a lovely colour in the glass, reflecting the pale malt base. A fine layer of creamy foam rests on top of the beer, leaving behind a lacing on the glass as you sip. The carbonation is what I would call moderate. There is a slight haze to the beer, which is not uncommon for an IPA-style brew, although there is still a brightness to the appearance.
Aroma
There’s a good punchy sense of hops immediately in the nose, characteristic of the IPA style. You get notes of pine, citrus and tropical fruit first up. I also got a faint whiff of grapefruit zest, I think. Further along, the fruity aromas are joined by a subtle malt backbone that provides a certain sweetness, balancing the hops. Try very hard and you’ll detect a bit of floral gubbins going on in the background too. Overall, the nose is decently balanced and quite vibrant. Bravo.
Taste
On the palate, for an IPA – even if it is non-alcoholic – you want that burst of hop flavour. And Proper Job IPA offers an impressive level of it. The beer opens with a burst of citrus fruits, making it taste very zesty. Fortunately, the malt sweetness isn’t far behind, balancing it out for a smoother taste. The bitterness does linger, but it’s not overwhelming. Overall, the taste is well-balanced, with just the right amount of bitterness to keep things interesting without overshadowing the fruity notes.
Mouthfeel
The mouthfeel of Proper Job IPA is light to medium-bodied. The beer feels refreshing and crisp, making it easy to drink without feeling too heavy. There’s a subtle dryness in the mouthfeel, which is typical of IPAs.
Finish
When it comes to the finish of this non-alcoholic beer, it’s the hop bitterness that lingers on the tongue. I find that a satisfying finish, even if it is shorter than you might get with traditional, alcoholic brews. There’s a clean, refreshing quality to the finish – it is a light-ish beer – with no harsh or overpowering aftertaste.
Pairing Suggestions
The citrus and tropical fruit notes in the beer would work well with grilled seafood, such as shrimp, scallops or fish tacos, where those zesty citrus flavours would complement the dish. The crisp, dry finish also makes it a great pairing with fried foods, such as tempura vegetables or crispy fried chicken, cutting through the batter. The bitterness of the hops would also contrast well with the saltiness of cheeses, if you fancied it with a cheese board.
Overall Impressions of Proper Job IPA
Proper Job IPA is a crafty brew, in that it demonstrates a lot of the refinement you’d get in a craft beer – without the alcohol, of course. An IPA style can be tricky to replicate, and often NA versions can’t quite get that hop-forward flavour you’re looking for. Proper Job do a, ahem, proper job of managing that and have created an impressively balanced and flavourful non-alcoholic beer.