Dr Loosen is one of Germany’s most storied wine producers. After all, they been in the winemaking game for nigh on 200 years now. That’s a lot of wine coming out of the Mosel region. So when such an august institution turns its hand to non-alcoholic wine, hopes are high that the accumulated knowledge and precision will result in a superior NA tipple. And given that Riesling is what they are best known for, the alcohol-free Dr Lo Riesling has a lot to live up to.
So, is it just what the doctor ordered? (Sorry, that’s too obvious and doesn’t even work. Hey ho, on we go.)
Appearance
Dr Lo Riesling presents a pale straw-yellow hue, with a slight greenish tint that is characteristic of young, fresh Rieslings. The clarity is very good, as one would hope, and it catches the light well, suggesting a well-made wine with good structure. Swirl the glass and you get some viscosity, though, as expected for a de-alcoholised wine, it lacks some of the weight and density of a full-strength Riesling. It doesn’t quite have the same legs running down the glass, but this does not detract from its visual appeal.
Aroma
The nose on this non-alcoholic Riesling is lively, offering a classic bouquet of citrus, orchard fruit and delicate floral notes. Green apple, pear and peach dominate the initial aroma, balanced by hints of lemon zest and lime. Beyond the fruit, there are subtle floral elements along the lines of white blossoms and elderflower, alongside a faint wet stone minerality, which is a signature characteristic of Mosel Rieslings. The typical petrol or kerosene note that can develop in high-quality Rieslings over time is largely absent, but for most drinkers, this won’t be a problem (and there mighty be a tender, faint whiff of it there if you sniff hard enough).
Taste
On the palate, those fruit and citrus notes, and the accompanying acidity are most prominent. Besides the lemon, lime and apple, I also detected notes of white peach and a touch of honeydew melon. The mid-palate reveals a pleasant minerality, reminiscent of wet slate, which, combined with the vibrant acidity, mimics the balance found in a classic Mosel Riesling. The fact that it is not overly sweet (if if a shade sweeter than a traditional Riesling from the region) is a big plus point in my book.
Mouthfeel
The mouthfeel of Dr Lo Alcohol-Free Riesling has a lively, crisp texture that keeps it engaging. The acidity provides a nice lift, giving it an almost spritzy sensation, though there are, of course, no actual bubbles. This makes it feel light and energetic rather than flat, which can sometimes be a problem with alcohol-free wines. The balance of acidity and fruit compensates well for a slight lack of weight and viscosity compared to alcoholic Rieslings.
Finish
The finish finds refreshing citrus notes leading the way. Hints of green apple and minerality remain on the tongue, leaving a pleasant, crisp aftertaste. There is also a faint touch of the honeyed sweetness, though thankfully, it never becomes cloying. If there’s one minor critique, it’s that the finish is slightly shorter than that of a traditional Mosel Riesling, likely due to the absence of alcohol, which usually contributes to a longer, more structured finish. However, really not a problem for a wine this well-balanced.
Pairing Suggestions
Anything you’d normally pair with a traditional Riesling will go well with Dr Lo’s NA version. I had it with some sushi and, boy, was that a nice combination. In fact, I reckon it’s a great match for all manner of Asian dishes, from a Thai curry to Vietnamese rice rolls. I’d also be happy to have a glass alongside a selection of cheeses, though I’d err towards the milder side of all things fromage: think goat’s cheese, ricotta and a mild blue.
Overall Impressions of Dr Lo Riesling
The doctor is in. In the realm of great non-alcoholic wines, that is. Dr Lo Riesling delivers for those of us who love the fresh, crisp character of a classic Mosel Riesling. It manages to retain the signature acidity, fruitiness, and minerality of the varietal, only losing a touch of weight and complexity with the removal of the alcohol. You can tell care and attention (and tradition) have gone into crafting this wine to retain a much of the classic Riesling characteristics as possible. Recommended.